The rule
Judge anything you wear in this order. First, does it fit? Then, is the cloth good? Only then does the name on the label matter, and often it doesn't matter at all.
Why it matters
Fit is what people actually see. A modest jacket that sits properly on your shoulders looks expensive, while a famous label hanging off them looks borrowed. Good cloth comes next, because it drapes better and lasts longer. The brand is the part only you know about.
How to do it well
- Buy for the shoulders and the length, and let an alterations tailor do the rest.
- Handle the cloth before you look at the label.
- Find a good local tailor. It's the best money a well-dressed man spends.